Welcome to Vietnam!

After our Indonesian adventures came time for Vietnam- our main destination of the entire trip as we’re planning to get a very good use out of my visa (Peter didn’t need one) and stay here for almost a month.

We arrived in Hanoi, checked into our homestay at around midnight and went on a hunt for our first pho soup in the capital. After withdrawing Vietnamese dong, which made us millionaires again, we enjoyed the soup and it suddenly felt very real. We are in Vietnam; the dream is coming true.

We spent the next 2 days exploring the city- did a free walking tour (which seems to be a tradition at this point), visited all the main sights, places rich in history. The most interesting one must be the Hoa Lo Prison, which was a prison used by the French colonists for political prisoners. Very informative and a truly horrifying, eye-opening visit.

Hanoi is very loud and hectic- after arriving to the city crossing the street feels like an adventure- the traffic NEVER stops to let you walk. Sidewalks are reserved for food stalls and motorcycles to park. People walk on the streets (sometimes in the middle) and it’s considered completely normal. The city is loud and polluted. All that considered, we really, really liked it. Hanoi is real and raw and after arriving straight from Bali, it felt pretty non-touristy which was a nice change for sure. The city belongs to street food vendors who seduce you with cheap and fresh foods - Vietnamese dishes are really amazing and hard to resist. We have tried quite a few and oh my, everything is so good, fresh, fragrant, and has a very distinguished taste. Trying out new dishes here is just such a treat- there’s 99% chance you will like it. My personal favorite is banh xeo- a savory, crispy, stuffed rice pancake, which is a popular fast food in Vietnam. Peter says a nice bahn mi is his top choice.

We later went to Sapa- the city in fog, especially in winter. We spent 3,5 days trekking and passing through the nearby villages, getting to know local minorities, admiring the local culture and traditional craft. We got to observe people’s daily lives- women producing hemp weavings, farmers working on fields, children playing and bantering. I personally loved all the textile pieces and had to stop by every little shop (poor Peter).

When it comes to the climate, it was definitely way colder than in all the other places we had been to, so we finally got to wear the jackets we’d been dragging with us in 30 degrees before.

Sapa is a very beautiful area that used to be a French resort back in the colonial era. The misty mountains, wonderful views, fresh air, interesting culture that has been protected and cultivated for thousands of years, make it a very special and majestic place to visit in Vietnam. You really shouldn’t miss it, even though it’s definitely very touristy and locals will try to sell you something anywhere you look.

In case you decide to take your chances doing a hiking trip without a pre-booked guide, be prepared to meet the local mafia at the start of all the hiking locations. In this case the local mafia takes the form of women in traditional clothing that start following you without saying anything, or they will be trying to guide you on the correct path. It’s obvious that if you let them follow you, they will be expecting a payment afterwards, but the problem is, they are very difficult to get rid of. If tell them you’re not interested, they will pretend to be going somewhere for their own business, but still somehow being directly behind you. Our best advice after three or four such encounters: be firm and make it clear from the start that you don’t want any uninvited followers.

Ten hours on a sleeper bus later and we found ourselves in Cat Ba- an island in the north of Vietnam. It’s still quiet and not overcrowded, unlike the famous Ha Long Bay area. On the day we arrived it was very warm and sunny, so we swapped our Sapa trekking long sleeve outfits for swim gear and enjoyed the sea and an empty, gold sand beach. Cat Ba is known for its great trekking in the Cat Ba National Park as well as access to Lan Ha Bay and Ha Long Bay. They comprise hundreds of limestone islets, crystal clear water and untouched sandy beaches.

We were lucky to do both- the trekking and the boat tour (which included kayaking to hidden lagoons through rock caves). The landscapes were truly stunning; one of the most spectacular ones we’ve ever seen.

From here our journey will take us through Vietnam towards the south, with the next destination being Ninh Binh. Stay tuned for more adventures! :)